How to Buy a
Used Boat

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A native to coastal North Carolina, I was practically raised in a boat and actually spent several years working as a boat mechanic prior to college. Working as a Mechanical Engineer today, I continue to study the marine industry through boat shows, reading numerous publications, weekend repair work and of course on-water outings. As a result, this document is a collection of thoughts and experiences harnessed from 20+ years of boating. My motivation to publish these came from friends (and friends of friends) who repeatedly asked me for boat-buying advice. A typical 30 minute lecture usually ended with the other party asking, Can you make me a checklist..?

Well finally, here is my Boat-Buyer's Guide! Realizing that most working individuals (including myself) have very little time to read novels, I have omitted the fluff...just the facts are here. Carry it with you to look at a boat and ask questions directly from the list. If it gets greasy or wet don't worry, just print another copy!

The guide is organized as follows:

What You Should know is the areas of:

• Boat Hull, Transom, Interior & Floor
• Outboard Engines
• Sterndrives
• Trailers
• The On-Water Performance Test Drive
• Outboard Vs. Sterndrive...which should you choose?
• General Information
  (Applies when buying new and used boats)

Determine what type of "Stringer System" is within the hull...

Comment - Stringers are the "ribs" of a boat. Newer boats have fiberglass stringers or wooden stringers encapsulated in fiberglass. The less wood, the better. Rotten stringers = weak boat hull.

Inspect the floor for stiffness...

Comment - Climb aboard the boat and "walk around"...feeling for soft spots. This is a sign of a weakening or rotten floor.

Also Covers: Hull appearance, keel inspection, transom, engine mounting, rigging, cleats/hardware, electrical, upolstery, carpet, and Operator's Station.

Perform a compression check...

Comment - Compression can be checked with a relatively inexpensive device available at most automotive parts stores. The device usually comes with adapters to fit the most common spart plug threads. Measure compression on all cylinders. The highest and lowest measurements should not vary more than 15psi. This means "bad rings" and if ignored, they can fail and fall into the ports thus destroying the engine. If you are unable to check the engine compression yourself, have your local marina perform the test.

Inspect the Lower-Unit Gear Lube...

Comment - Remove the bottom drain-plug of the lower-unit. Grease will trickle slowly if the top vent-plug remains installed. If the lower plug is magnetic, inspect its tip for metal slivers. Secondly, look closely at the condition of the gear lube. Signs of "milk" indicate water intrusion while a "burned smell" may indicate a low fluid level and subsequent over heating.

Also Covers: Propellers 101, skeg inspection (what's hidden behind those scars), 2-cycle oil, gasoline grades, decarbonizing, water separating filters, water-pumps (one of the most critical components of your outboard!), zinc anodes, storage/winterizing, rigging inspection and routine maintenance.

Pull/Remove the Engine Oil dipstick...Is the oil milky?...

Comment - If the engine oil appears contaminated with water it's likely that the block is cracked from improper or no winterizing. Beware! You may also wish to inspect the inside of the oil filler cap located on the valve cover. Condensation here may also confirm the cracked block theory.

Inspect the following Outdrive related items...

Comment - In you are unfamiliar with these items have a certified marine mechaninc inspect them for you.
• Gimble bearing
• Engine/outdrive alignment
• Shift interrupt adjusted correctly?

Inspect the exhaust manifolds and risers for cracks and water leaks while engine is idling. (Note: Never start the engine without a water source for cooling purposes)

Also Covers: Engine inspection list, blowers, spark arresters and engine oil.

A galvanized or painted Trailer...

Comment - If your boat will be used primarily at the coast, consider only a galvanized trailer for corrosion protection. However, if you will be boating on inland lakes 95% of the time, with an occasional trip to the coast, most marinas can lift your boat from your painted trailer and set it in the water for a small fee. Remember...do not dunk you painted trailer in salt water!

Inspect the rear Keel Roller closely...

Comment - This roller is the first contact point for your boat when loading. It's very important to have a wide, functioning roller (or pad) in this location to protect the bow and keel from scraping if the boat happens to contact the trailer 'off-center' due to wind, current or driver error.

Trailer equipped with side 'loading guides'?

Comment - Side-guides are almost a necessity if you often load/unload your boat alone. Helps keep the boat centered during loading/unloading if winds or running currents are present.

Also Covers: Single/dual axles, lights, winches, roller replacement, bearing buddies, structural members, skids, weight distribution, coupler and brakes.

The "On-Water Performance Inspection" is the most important step in the boat buying process. One should never purchase a boat, new or used, without first operating the vessel ON THE WATER.

Is the engine equipped with Tilt/Trim? Is it functioning properly..?

Comment - This is a desirable feature to have. This capability lets the operator fine-tune the attitude of the boat's propulsion while underway. This improves fuel-efficiency, speed and ride-comfort.

Does the boat plane quickly..?

Does the boat vibrate while underway..?

Does the boat porpoise while underway..?

Test drive the boat in the loaded condition if possible...fuel, skis, passengers, etc. This will determine if the boat is under powered.

Also Covers: Trailering, loading/unloading at the boat ramp, establishing maximum RPM and other performance related criteria.

Well, the debate begins...Years ago, the answer seemed unanimous for offshore boaters. If you operated your vessel in saltwater you owned an OUTBOARD. However, if you boated on inland lakes or other freshwater waterways, the choice of propulsion was determined by flipping a coin. Today, things have changed...

See our table of positive and negative characteristics with ratings applied in the following areas:

• Noise Levels
• Maintenance Costs
• Reliability
• Durability
• Fuel Efficiency
• Expected Engine Life

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